INTERNATIONAL STANDARD | ISO 16128-1 First edition 2016-02 | ||
Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products — Part 1: Definitions for ingredients Lignes directrices relatives aux définitions techniques et aux critères applicables aux ingrédients et produits cosmétiques naturels et biologiques — Partie 1: Définitions des ingrédients |
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The committee responsible for this document is ISO/TC 217, Cosmetics.
ISO 16128 consists of the following parts, under the general title Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products:
Part 1: Definitions for ingredients
The following part is under preparation:
Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products
ISO 16128 provides guidelines on definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products. These guidelines are specific to the cosmetics sector, taking into account that most existing approaches written for the agricultural and food sector are not directly transferrable to cosmetics. They apply scientific judgment and offer principles towards a consistent logical framework for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products incorporating common approaches employed in existing references. The purpose of these guidelines is to encourage a wider choice of natural and organic ingredients in the formulation of a diverse variety of cosmetic products to encourage innovation.
However, it is common, based on other references in the public domain, to cover criteria for ingredients, as well as definitions and criteria for finished products. This will be covered in ISO 16128-2, which will build on and enhance this part.
This part of ISO 16128 provides guidelines on definitions for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients.
In addition to natural and organic ingredients, other ingredient categories which may be necessary for natural and organic product development are defined with associated restrictions.
ISO 16128 does not address product communication (e.g. claims and labelling), human safety, environmental safety and socio-economic considerations (e.g. fair trade), and the characteristics of packaging materials or regulatory requirements applicable for cosmetics.
Natural ingredients are cosmetic ingredients obtained only from plants, animals, micro-organisms or minerals, including those obtained from these materials by
physical processes (e.g. grinding, drying, distillation),
fermentation reactions occurring in nature and leading to molecules which occur in nature, and
other procedures of preparation including traditional ones (e.g. extraction using solvents) without intentional chemical modification (Annex A includes the definition of solvents and the categories of extracts using solvents for ingredient processing and manufacturing).
The following materials, and materials originating from them, shall be considered to fall under the general heading of natural origin:
plants including fungi and algae;
NOTE 1 Ingredients coming from genetically modified plants can be considered as natural ingredients in certain regions of the world. |
NOTE 2 In the context of these guidelines, the term “herb” can be used as a synonym for the word plant. |
minerals;
animals;
micro-organisms.
Ingredients obtained from fossil fuels are excluded from the definition.
For reasons of clarity, the term “natural” is not used in this part of ISO 16128 to indicate the characteristics of a scent, a colour, or a taste.
NOTE 3 Based on the definitions given in this part of ISO 16128 that are cosmetic product specific, an aromatic natural raw material according to ISO 9235 can be composed of natural ingredients, derived natural ingredients or a mixture of the two. ISO 9235 defines aromatic natural raw materials that can be used in different sectors including cosmetics. As these are complex mixtures, the necessary information can be obtained from the aromatic raw material supplier. |
Natural mineral ingredients are natural ingredients which are inorganic substances (i.e. non-carbon derived and carbonate salts) occurring naturally in the earth having a distinctive chemical formula and consistent set of physical properties (e.g. crystalline structure, hardness, colours).
Organic ingredients are natural ingredients originating from organic farming methods or from wild harvesting in compliance with national legislation or equivalent International Standards where applicable.
NOTE The term “organic farming” can be defined as per individual national jurisdiction where applicable. |
Water, as defined in 2.4, except for constitutive water, and minerals are outside the scope of organic farming.
Water is considered as natural.
However, the types of water defined in the following list may be treated differently.
Constitutive water is the liquid (juice) content of fresh plants.
Reconstitution water is equivalent to the water found in the original material and is used to restore the dry material to its original content.
Extraction water is the water used to physically extract ingredients from a material mixture.
For the purposes of ISO 16128, water which is not defined above is designated as “formulation water”.
Reference to the twelve principles of Green Chemistry originally published by Paul Anastas and John Warner in Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice (Oxford University Press: New York, 1998). Available from: http://www.epa.gov/greenchemistry/